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Home > Skin & Beauty > ​Does Mandelic Acid Cause Sun Sensitivity?

​Does Mandelic Acid Cause Sun Sensitivity?

5 min read
By Sarita Sanke, MD | Dermatology

In this article:

  • Mandelic Acidand Increased Sun Sensitivity
  • What Are the Benefits of Using Mandelic Acid on Your Skin?
  • How to Use Mandelic Acid Correctly to Avoid Sun Damage?
  • Most-Asked Questions
  • Final Word

Meet mandelic acid, your skin’s new best friend. As a member of the alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) family, it’s a natural gem derived from bitter almonds.

What makes it special is its large molecular structure, which ensures gentle exfoliation and thus makes it perfect for all skin types, even sensitive skin. (1)(2)

While there are not many side effects associated with this ingredient, being an exfoliating agent, it does have the potential to make your skin more susceptible to sun damage when used without sunblock.

Even though mandelic acid is a gentler exfoliating ingredient than some other skin acids, like any exfoliant, it can make your skin more sensitive to the sun and increase your skin’s vulnerability to UV rays.

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Continue reading to look into this ingredient and the sun sensitivity it causes in more detail.

Mandelic Acidand Increased Sun Sensitivity

Mandelic acid, a type of alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), is great for rejuvenating the skin by promoting cell renewal and reducing wrinkles. (3)

However, the problem is that AHAs can make your skin more sensitive to the sun. Researchers explain that using AHAs, like mandelic acid, along with sun exposure can lead to some skin damage. (4)

Research suggests that the increased sun sensitivity with AHAs is linked to the speeding up of the skin cell turnover process. Although it is important for antiaging actions, it also means your skin might not handle the UV rays as well.

So, while some studies deem AHAs great ingredients for preventing and managing premature aging caused by sun exposure, the key is finding the right balance as too much of AHAs can cause more sun damage. (4)

Therefore, if you’re using any chemical peels or exfoliators that contain AHAs, make sure you do not use a lot of them.

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Also, use a good-quality and broad-spectrum sunblock after using such ingredients, especially if you live in a sunny place and can’t avoid the sun completely. (5)(6)

What Are the Benefits of Using Mandelic Acid on Your Skin?

Here is why you should use mandelic acid in your skincare routine.

  1. Clears up acne: Mandelic acid is great for clearing up acne by opening up clogged pores, making your skin appear much nicer. According to research, 45% mandelic acid was successful in treating mild to moderate cases of acne. (3)(7)
  2. Makes skin look youthful: Mandelic acid also reduces signs of aging such as wrinkles and fine lines by increasing hyaluronic acid content in the skin. A study showed that this ingredient was successful in making the skin appear younger at around 2 months. (8)(9)
  3. Reduces skin inflammation: Mandelic acid calms redness and irritation of the skin and is a much better ingredient compared to other AHAs in terms of lesser inflammatory side effects. This also makes it perfect for sensitive skin types. (10)(11)
  4. Helps treat rosacea: Mandelic acid is an excellent exfoliating agent, which means it will help your skin manage symptoms of rosacea. (11)

How to Use Mandelic Acid Correctly to Avoid Sun Damage?

Keep the following things in mind to avoid any skin damage from the sun’s UV rays while using mandelic acid:

  • Begin with a mild concentration of mandelic acid and ease into it.
  • Test a small area before applying it everywhere.
  • Better to keep it in your nighttime routine. You can apply it in the evening after cleansing.
  • Follow up with a moisturizer for balance.
  • Use sunblock with SPF 30 or higher when using it in the morning. Keep reapplying sunscreen every 2 hours.

Most-Asked Questions

How long does it take for mandelic acid to show results?

Results vary, but improvements in acne and skin texture may be noticeable within a few weeks to months.

Can I use mandelic acid if I have sensitive skin?

Yes, mandelic acid is considered gentler than some other AHAs, making it suitable for sensitive skin.

Final Word

Mandelic acid, a gentle exfoliant derived from bitter almonds, may increase sun sensitivity. Though milder than other AHAs, it accelerates skin cell turnover, making UV protection crucial.

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Start slowly, do a patch test, and use SPF for daytime application.

References
  1. JE; CD. Chemical peels in the treatment of acne: Patient selection and Perspectives. Clinical, cosmetic and investigational dermatology. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/30038512/.
  2. Garofalo V, Cannizzaro MV, Mazzilli S, Bianchi L, Campione E. Clinical evidence on the efficacy and tolerability of a topical medical device containing benzoylperoxide 4%, retinol 0.5%, mandelic acid 1% and lactobionic acid 1% in the treatment of mild facial acne: An open label pilot study. Clinical, cosmetic and investigational dermatology. May 15, 2019. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6526677/.
  3. Moghimipour E. Hydroxy acids, the most widely used anti-aging agents. Jundishapur journal of natural pharmaceutical products. 2012. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3941867/.
  4. Tang S-C, Yang J-H. Dual effects of alpha-hydroxy acids on the skin. Molecules (Basel, Switzerland). April 10, 2018. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6017965/.
  5. Tran D, Townley JP, Barnes TM, Greive KA. An antiaging skin care system containing alpha hydroxy acids and vitamins improves the biomechanical parameters of facial skin. Clinical, cosmetic and investigational dermatology. December 19, 2014. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4277239/.
  6. KA; TDJT. An antiaging skin care system containing alpha hydroxy acids and vitamins improves the biomechanical parameters of facial skin. Clinical, cosmetic and investigational dermatology. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/25552908/.
  7. P; DSK. Comparative study of efficacy and safety of 45% mandelic acid versus 30% salicylic acid peels in mild-to-moderate acne vulgaris. Journal of cosmetic dermatology. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/31553119/.
  8. 18295 mandelic acid, a lipophilic alpha hydroxy acid, reduces lipid … Accessed December 13, 2023. https://www.jaad.org/article/S0190-9622(20)31574-7/fulltext.
  9. EJ; JS. Effects of topical mandelic acid treatment on facial skin viscoelasticity. Facial plastic surgery : FPS. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/30513536/.
  10. Soleymani T, Lanoue J, Rahman Z. A practical approach to chemical peels: A review of Fundamentals and step-by-step algorithmic protocol for treatment. The Journal of clinical and aesthetic dermatology. August 2018. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6122508/.
  11. Gentili G, Perugini P, Bugliaro S, D’Antonio C. Efficacy and safety of a new peeling formulated with a pool of phas for the treatment of all skin types, even sensitive. Journal of cosmetic dermatology. February 2023. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC10087944/.
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