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For over half a century, hair straighteners and relaxers have been go-to solutions for those wanting straight locks.
Hair relaxers, commonly used by many African-American women, are chemical treatments that contain ingredients such as sodium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, and guanidine carbonate.
Because they are potent bases with a high pH of 9.0–14.0, they open the hair cuticles, allowing the straightening agents to penetrate the hair shaft, breaking and rearranging keratin disulfide bridges for permanent straightening. (1)(2)
However, the strong alkaline nature of these relaxers, including guanidine hydroxide and potassium hydroxide, can lead to irreversible damage and breakage when overprocessed within 20-25 minutes. (3)
Since alkaline solutions alter the hair pH, they also make your hair prone to future damage if incorrectly applied. (1)(2)
There are some ways to manage and fix relaxed hair damage. This article will look into it all, so read on to find out.
Why Do Relaxers Damage Hair So Severely?
For sleek and manageable hair, relaxers have become trusted options for many women. However, these products can be very harmful to your beautiful locks!
Relaxers damage the hair because of their strong chemical composition. Ingredients such as sodium hydroxide change the natural structure of the keratin bonds, causing irreversible damage and breakage.
Furthermore, the high pH of relaxers swells the hair fibers, making them more prone to friction and breakage. (1)(2)
According to a research study, relaxed hair shows unexpected fragility. The study’s biochemical analysis revealed reduced levels of important compounds in relaxed hair such as cystine, citrulline, and arginine, coupled with an increase in glutamine. (4)(5)
A decrease in compounds such as cystine adds a vulnerability to the hair’s structure, making it very easy to break. This finding points to a negative impact of relaxers on hair health, suggesting that they may be contributing to hair damage. (4)
Negative Effects of Relaxers on Hair
Unfortunately, relaxers have several negative effects: (6)
- Hair relaxers, used for straightening hair, can cause various issues such as frizz, scalp problems, and hair loss after repeated use.
- In Kenya, 67% of Afro-haired women faced problems such as scalp burns and hair breakage after using relaxers.
- Even relaxing products labeled “chemical-free” had harmful effects, causing breakage or loss in 95% of the users.
- Acute problems caused by relaxers include skin burning and infections.
- Chronic use of relaxers is linked to a type of hair loss called cicatricial alopecia.
- Traction alopecia risk doubles with relaxer use, especially with tight hairstyles.
- Structural changes in the hair, such as trichorrhexis nodosa, can occur too with relaxer use.
How to Treat Severely Damaged Relaxed Hair?
Fortunately, there are some things you can do to give your damaged relaxed hair a healthful boost.
1. Deep conditioning
For fixing relaxed and damaged hair, instant conditioners may not offer the most desired results due to their short contact time.
While they effectively combat dryness from regular shampooing and daily wear, for more severely damaged and dry hair, the recommendation leans toward the use of deep conditioners.
Deep conditioners are highly concentrated, requiring a longer application period, typically 20–30 minutes, to provide a more intensive and restorative treatment. (7)
2. Protein treatments
Repairing damaged hair involves the use of keratin, an essential element in hair structure. Cysteine-rich keratin, which forms disulfide linkages, provides hair with strength and toughness.
Human hair comprises type I (acidic) and type II (basic) keratins that can be damaged by chemical relaxing treatments, diminishing their tensile strength. (8)
Therefore, the application of intact keratin, especially from human hair sources, can help restore natural hair health and enhance the strength of damaged hair fibers.
3. Hot oiling with coconut oil
Research has deemed coconut oil an excellent choice for damaged hair. Upon comparing the effects of coconut oil, mineral oil (MO), and sunflower oil on various hair types, a study revealed that coconut oil showcases the best results.
While mineral oil is commonly used in Indian hair formulations for its nongreasy and cost-effective nature, it is coconut oil that significantly reduces protein loss in damaged hair.
Plus, the high content of lauric acid in coconut oil enables deep penetration into the hair shaft, keeping your hair nourished and strong. (9)(10)
Home Remedies for Severely Damaged Relaxed Hair
Experts share the following home remedies for managing severely damaged relaxed hair:
- Create a velvety paste by blending kaolin clay with water or aloe vera juice. Massage this soothing mixture into your scalp and hair, letting it work its magic for 15-20 minutes.
- Add wheat protein into your routine using a wheat protein-enriched hair mask or conditioner. Apply it generously to your hair, paying extra attention to the damaged areas. Leave it on for 10-15 minutes to allow it to deeply penetrate the strands, and then rinse it off.
- Apply a generous amount of aloe vera juice or gel to damp hair, making sure every strand gets its dose of goodness. Let it work its wonders for 30 minutes, and then rinse it off.
- Blend a few drops of peppermint oil with a carrier oil such as jojoba oil or coconut oil. Gently massage this aromatic mix into your scalp, allowing it to take effect for a minimum of 30 minutes before washing it off.
Most-Asked Questions
Can damaged relaxed hair be repaired?
While complete restoration may be challenging, adopting a care routine with deep conditioning, protein treatments, and minimal heat styling can significantly improve hair health.
How can I prevent further damage to my hair?
Limit relaxer applications, avoid excessive heat, and embrace protective styles. Moreover, regular trims remove split ends, promoting healthy hair growth.
What products work best for damaged relaxed hair?
Look for sulfate-free shampoos, deep conditioners, and leave-in treatments with moisturizing and strengthening ingredients to nourish and repair your hair.
Final Word
Hair straighteners and relaxers, used for over 50 years, promise hair sleekness, but their chemical composition, which includes sodium hydroxide and lithium hydroxide, can lead to severe damage.
The negative effects of relaxer use include frizz, scalp issues, and hair loss.
Deep conditioning, protein treatments with intact keratin, and hot oiling with coconut oil are recommended for repairing damaged relaxed hair.
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